Perfume of the Day: Chanel’s 31 Rue Cambon

One of “Les Exclusifs” created by Jacque Polge, 31 Rue Cambon is named for Coco Chanel’s apartment that she kept over the Chanel boutique in Paris.  It is a chypre, something not often encountered in your everyday fragrance,  but well known to those who study the historical art of perfumery.  This went quite sweet on my skin, and I detected a note of amber ( the notes given include: bergamot, black pepper, patchouli, cistus labdanum and iris) but perhaps it’s the patchouli.  It is definitely reminiscent of Guerlain’s famous Mitsouko, although this is more like Mitsouko in middle age.   It develops slowly,  and it is subtle.  It vibrates between a bit of resin and the green/citrus bergamot note, with the pepper like a tent pole propping the entire composition up, and the soft basenotes with a whisper of powdery iris.   I love it, but the sillage isn’t powerful, so others must be close to love it as well.  As a work of art, it’s very lovely.  As a commodity or a product, it leaves me wanting.

Photo: Chanel